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The Olive and Olive Oil:The oil content of the olive depends largely upon the soil, climatic conditions and variety of olives. In the Mediterranean countries there are cultivated at least one hundred different varieties, each yielding a different oil of its own peculiar taste and keeping qualities. Different sections of any one country will yield different qualities of olive oil. The olive grove whose fruit yields extra fine oil one year may produce the next year exceptionally poor oil because of adverse weather conditions. Consequently, it is of the utmost importance that each year the oil come from the district which produces that year the finest quality of oil; and that the most expert care be used in selecting, as well as in storing and carrying the oil. The nutty mild oils that will spread over the lips are the best and command the highest price. "Virgin oil" is the first pressing of olives under very gentle pressure. This term does not necessarily imply high quality; for while the oil will be of superfine quality if the olives pressed are sound and of proper ripeness and flavor, a first pressing from inferior olives will necessarily be of an inferior grade, although it may properly be classed as "virgin oil". The blending of olive oils-that is, taking the olive oil that comes from Calabria and mixing it in proper proportions with the oil that comes from the Riviera; combining the fruity taste of the Betonti with the sweetness of the Giotario oil and with the proper proportion of a San Remo oil-is a science, because the proportions have to be changed from year to year in order to get the same taste, the same quality. One year the Betonti oil will be much more fruity than another year; perhaps a relative variation in the San Remo oil. Every lot of oil will require different blending in order to get a standard blend. The method of storing the oil and carrying it from the mill to the market has a great deal to do with the taste and keeping qualities, for olive oils are extremely susceptible to the influence of light, air and heat. Steel tanks, glass enameled, permitting the application of a vacuum, are unquestionably best for storage purposes. Oil thus stored will retain its freshness and delicacy for at least five years, provided an even temperature of 55 deg. to 60 deg. Fahrenheit be maintained. Because of its great value and its pre-eminence in the list of edible vegetable oils, not one of them has been subjected to such a systematic and extensive adulteration as olive oil. By reason of the color resemblance of many of the edible vegetable oils, adulterations of the most extensive character may be practiced without indication to the eye any change in composition. Nearly all of the edible vegetable oils have the light amber tint which is characteristic of good grades of olive oil. Even the expert connoisseur is rarely able to distinguish any given edible oil from olive oil except by taste. The adulterants most frequently met with are cottonseed oil, peanut oil, sesame oil, and corn oil. Practically all these adulterants can be quite easily detected by a competent chemist; but as far as tests for quality are concerned, the only real test is the taste. All the olive oil
that comes into this country must first be inspected by custom house officials.
These officials draw samples from all the different marks or brands in
each shipment, and if the oil is found to be adulterated, it is In recent years, olive
oil of a third pressing has been put through a refining process, artificially
bleached, and then called "refined virgin oil". This term tends
to mislead the consumer to whom it indicates an oil of high quality, whereas
it actually means a chemically-treated, cheap oil.
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